davidbrownman: forum

Hi,

I'm brand new to racing. I've read a few guides that have been very helpful. However, I understand the races take 1 hour to start, and quite a few minutes to race. But do I need to be online that entire time? Or can I leave and come back for the race?

Thanks!

Hi,

I was wondering how many merits there are for marrige? How many anniversaries are rewarded kind of thing?

Thanks!

Hi

I was just wondering what everyone thought the best place to travel was when trying to make profits? I know everywhere varies, but just curious.

Hi guys,

While working on my 76 spitfire I found one of the fitting on the rear steel brake lines had seized up. I was able to free the fittings from eachother, but I am twisting the line.

I would normally heat it up to try to free it but I don't want to damage the rubber hose it's attached to, as it is quite expensive and has to be shipped in from out of country.

And of course the replacement steel line isn't available for purchase and I would have to make myself.

Do you guys have any ideas on how to try and free the fitting from the line and ideally salvage the line?

Thanks!

I was in a similar situation with my car,I love it, it's an awesome experience fixing and maintaining a car you know the family of. However, I got burned, the family didn't know most of the history, and a bunch of shoddy work was done in the past, hidden by carpets, dashboard etc and not visible on initial inspection. Now my car isn't and never will be roadworthy. If you feel it's a good price you have the means to purchase and maintain it, go for it, just be wary and do a really really good inspection. Plus whatever you budget in parts/upgrades add 25-50% lol

Count me in!

3/4 litre of choccy milk and 2 taco bell chicken chalupa tacos (shameful, yet neccessary. Was fixing my car all day)

Congrats man! It's a gorgeous bike. Ride safe!

Drove a Hyundai and was astonished by the complete lack of quality, expensive parts and difficulty working on it with standard tools. If I wad going to buy a car that was expensive to maintain and hard to work on, personally I would rather a higher quality one like a BMW or a VW/Audi.

It's always a good idea to check/replace all fluids after something has been sitting a while. It also wouldn't hurt to do a compression test too.

You for sure want one of two things.

A. Mid 70's boat, ford LTD, Lincoln continental, dodge marauder,etc.

2. Late 60s to mid 70s british roadster, mgb, triumph tr6, spitfire, gt6, austin-Healy sprite, fiat 124 (not British but similar) etc.

iii. The cheapest muscle car or pickup available on marketplace. Particularly one that likely will never run.

But in all seriousness, if you are looking for a non-luxury brand I hear really good things about the Nissan suvs. And the Lamborghini Urus and Porche cyanne/maycann look really nice. Btw I know nothing about any new cars much less any new brand that also sells high-end sports cars too lol.  

20w50 is incredibly thick, it would starve most gas motors in a northern climate. 15w40 is the thickest I ever use on my large diesels. I would stick with manufacturers spec. That's all I use and it's worked fine for me through canadian winters.

As well as taking a photo only do one side of your breaks at a time. Thst way you can use the other as a reference. But most modern disc brakes are simple enough you could probably figure it out.

Awesome car, i have an 06 tdi as well. Just keep a n75 valve on the shelf, they tend to break relatively often but they're simple to replace. Solid and pretty reliable car. 06 is before all the emissions bogged them down and caused mechanical problems. Just watch for rocker rust, the rockers are the frame in a jetta.

There is a balance, the cheapest of cheap is exactly that, it won't do much for your engine. however there is a point of diminishing return for the cost.  More expensive oils have additives and lubricants cheaper oils may not, or there may be more of them in it. It really depends how far down the rabbit hole you want to go down, for more expensive/meaningful cars you want to save it may be more useful. But realistically that ranger probably isn't worth the cost of the best oil, but mid-range should help. As long as the oil is Full synthetic it should be fine.

TLDR; Don't buy super cheap oil, but buy mid-low grade Full synthetic.

Just from my finite searching (I also don't know what engine you have, so don't take it as gospel) found you should need 5 quarts of 5w30

It is dependant on the engine in terms of fuel. Regular should be fine in your use case. However high quality oil makes a extreme difference in engine wear and longevity. Look up the manufacturer's reccomendation for oil weight (something like 10w30) and the quantity it uses. I am loyal to Shell Rotella T6, however there are lots of good oils and preferences out there. Just make sure you get full synthetic oil.

For me the diesels have been rock solid and have far better economy, at one point i was at less than 1 liter per hundred km.  

It's always a shame to see them wrecked.

If you're in the great white north I believe it is still for sale, it was across the province, so I couldn't  see it in person. I just saw a marketplace ad and had a phone call with a friend who was home for holidays, it was his family's friend. It sounds like it has a lot of diy driveway "improvements"

For the same price you can get almost any mid-70s british roadster. I mean, you would get good fast because I don't even know if they can spin their tires lol. 

I know nothing about drift, but I would assume the civic due to a lower CG.

Congrats! Your first car is a awesome learning journey, and life skills you can always use!

Checking your alternator charge and battery strength is very simple. Brakes are usually very easy to do with minimal knowledge. With most cars that have a OBD II port it doesn't take much effort to fix a majority of check engine lights. Greasing and oiling your front end is important as well. But if you're going to try to tackle rust repair practice welding on a scrap piece of metal first, get used to it there. Also, if you can use no bondo or body filler the next person will love you, but if you have to use it make sure it's max 1/16 thick if not thinner. Remember, bondo is the bane of car people. If you're looking for more info we are always willing to help. However I don't personally know Fords well.

DCS (Digital Combat Simulator), awesome game, sucks up ram though.

I would reccomend reading the guides in the racing forum. This would be best put in the racing thread. 

Im joking about the LS, but the basics of an engine comes down to more fuel and air, with less exhaust resistance means more horsepower. So upping fuel pressure, a trying to mess with Ecm settings might help. Of course there's always turbos and exhaust headers too.

Just remember it doesn't take much horsepower to do the speed limit, it's only the acceleration. My current project has 72 HP. And it's a blast to drive.

B